When fed properly and in the proper ultraviolet light, the bearded dragon is a robust and healthy creature, typically living 8 to 12 years, occasionally even 15. However, like many reptiles, they will try to hide illness or injury. The first hazard to deal with is the substrate. Impaction is a problem in which an indigestible substance becomes trapped in the intestines and prevents proper flow through the digestive system. The best substrate is the subject of some controversy, but everyone will agree that the following are bad. The ear of corn can cause impaction and develop fungi and bacteria. The shell of the walnut is sharp and can also cause impaction. Calcisand and Vita-Sand taste good to bearded dragons, especially those that need more calcium, but cannot be digested and cause impaction. Reptile bark, wood chips, and original lizard litter can cause impaction. There are brands that claim to be biodegradable and safe to consume, but these should be viewed with suspicion. Bearded dragons have very short intestinal tracts and therefore have a lot of trouble metabolizing their food. Solid surfaces are usually the best and easiest to clean. Do not use hot rocks to keep the enclosure warm, as dragons have trouble detecting heat under their bodies, which causes burns.
When ingested, they often straighten and extend their hind legs and act as if they are paralyzed. This is not the same as sunbathing, if the lizard can walk, it is simply acting normal. Increasing the heat or soaking in hot water can cause a bowel movement, but is unlikely to save the creature. The best treatment is to limit the size of the food and avoid dangerous substrates.
The next step is proper nutrition. Insects that are fed to bearded dragons should be well loaded or well fed before feeding to lizards. Mealworms are a poor choice for dragon food, and only newly molted white larvae are appropriate. At least one meal every other day should include a calcium supplement, sprinkled or sprinkled over the food. Some recommend a multivitamin on a weekly basis, but excess vitamin A can be fatal, so it should not be overstated. You want the right amount of nutrients, not as much as possible.
Vegetables should be sprayed with water before feeding to provide moisture, and animals should be sprayed on their faces periodically: young twice a day, adults several times a week. If they lick off all the water, reapply until it stops. Some may learn to use a shallow pan, but they will need immediate daily cleaning if they defecate.
Animals will need sunlight, UV light, or dietary supplements to provide D3. Sunlight through a window will not work. If light bulbs are used, keep them very close to the enclosure, within a few inches, and replace them twice a year even if they don’t burn out.
Do not house dragons with other reptiles, and all new reptiles must be quarantined. Wash your hands before and after handling each reptile, and between handling reptiles kept in different enclosures. Keeping the enclosure clean is also important for your pet’s health.
Remember, you should always consult a veterinarian before treating an animal, and many problems are simply not within the normal owner’s ability to manage.
Coccidiosis is an infection that is commonly and incorrectly called a worm infestation. Coccidia are single-celled organisms that live in the intestinal walls and can cause diarrhea. Most dragons are normally infected, but only when lizards are weak does this become a danger. Smelly or loose intestines instead of hard granules are typical symptoms. Treatment usually involves a sulfa-type antibiotic. Quarantine the animal and make sure it is well hydrated. Don’t let him refuse food or water. A typical method is to use a syringe or dropper to feed the animal, but another method is to pour food or water into the animal’s nose. It will lick the substance from the “dirty” nose, consuming it. Many vets recommend a preventive deworming once or twice a year, just like you would a dog. However, others are beginning to believe that this can harm the dragon’s health and that treatment should only be done when symptoms are detected. This may be a contributing factor to “yellow fungus.”
What is called “yellow fungus” is believed to be more than one type of infection. The current belief is that many of the infected animals were treated with Albon, a common antibiotic. This is believed to have killed the good bacteria in the digestive tract, allowing yeast and fungal growth to survive in the feces, which then enter the lizard’s skin. Whatever the cause, it is infectious and deadly. It is recommended that a priobiotic treatment follow any antibiotic regimen. Some known cases were in animals that were never treated with antibiotics, but were kept in natural soil. The treatment regimen currently believed to be the best treatment is topical Nolvosan, keep out of eyes, then rinse followed by lamisil treatment. This should cover the infected area and surrounding areas, with another treatment with the missile in every 24 hour period. Acidophiliz + is a well-regarded priobiotic, although there are others. Oral treatments should be supervised by the veterinarian and during the treatment period, do not feed the lizard fruits. Treatment should be extended two weeks after the last symptoms are observed. Use a solid substrate during treatment and clean it daily. A complicating factor is that it takes more than ten days to cultivate the infection, and this often delays treatment until it is too late.
We know little about adenoviruses. Quarantine any reptile suspected of being infected, as this can kill an entire collection. Unfortunately, the only sure way to determine if the creature has an adenovirus is an autopsy. Most of the infected dragons had a history of lethargy, poor appetite, and diarrhea. They are more likely to be young than old. The symptoms are frustratingly vague. Some infected reptiles recover, others die. The mechanism that the virus uses to reach the host is unknown and treatments have not yet been developed.
Bearded dragons can be infested with mites. Mites are extremely difficult to eliminate and require a two-pronged attack. The animal and the habitat must be treated. The animal should be given a diluted betadine bath. Let the lizard drink up to its portion before adding the betadine. If the animal defecates, drain the tub, clean it, and repeat. The area around the eyes and nose should be treated with mineral oil after bathing. Discard all substrate, package for removal, and scrape the corners and edges of the enclosure to remove all mites, eggs, and mite feces. Clean or spray enclosure with soapy water and remove soap. Then use a 1/30 bleach mixture for 10 minutes. Bake wooden furniture for 2-3 hours at 250 degrees, longer for thicker pieces. Boil the rocks for half an hour. Anything too large for these treatments should be treated with the bleach solution for 8 hours. Clean or clean anything else using these treatments as appropriate for the substance. Use No-Pest strips or cat flea collars in enclosures and seal the tank or enclosure as tightly as possible. Leave this on for at least three hours. Pack and remove all cleaning materials for disposal, and allow the enclosure to sit for at least 8 hours before returning the dragons.
Egg bonding is a potentially lethal problem. This occurs most often with a first clutch with infertile eggs. Discuss this with your vet, as there are several possible causes. To prevent this, the best plan is to ensure that the female is old enough, large enough and healthy enough to reproduce and that she has been fed the best possible diet with the necessary supplements. Protect the animal from stress and make sure a suitable area for laying eggs is available.
Bearded dragons are vulnerable to respiratory problems. This can include clogged nostrils due to mucus, hoarse mouth breathing that is not ventilated due to heat. The usual causes are excess humidity and cold. Contact your veterinarian for treatment.
Too little vitamin D3 and calcium can lead to metabolic bone disease. Symptoms include tremors, spasms or stiffness of the extremities (especially the hind legs), parting of the mouth, and difficulty chewing food. If caught early, sunlight and supplements can handle the situation.
Note that it is also possible to harm your dragons with over-supplementation, as some nutrients are dangerous if the supply is too great for the body to handle. Vitamin A toxicity generally causes swelling of the throat and eyes, followed by swelling of the body and lethargy.
Hibernation occurs naturally. From December to February, start reducing the length of the day by controlling the lighted room. Gradually reduce the lighting period to 8-10 hours and lower the temperature to about 75-85 degrees during the day and 60 degrees at night. Provide material for digging a nest. Make sure the dragon is healthy and has no undigested food. If the dragon is awake during the hibernation period, it is safe to provide it with small amounts of food. After about two months, start increasing the temperature and light period to get back to normal.