In our previous article, we discussed the difference between frameless and frame-face cabinets, and then briefly mention overlay options for frame-face cabinets. As mentioned there, the two most common overlap options are ½” overlap and 1-1/4″ overlap. Here we will discuss the ½” overlap, which is probably the most popular and certainly the easiest.
There are a few advantages to using a ½” overlap over most other options:
– The doors are smaller and therefore a little less expensive.
– In corners or other tight areas, you can sometimes get away with less padding or no padding at all. (Note: With larger overlaps, you can accomplish the same thing by reducing the overlap on just one side of a given door, but that takes more thought and sometimes requires buying a couple of different hinge sizes.)
– In small spaces like bathrooms, these smaller doors require less space to open.
– It is easier to calculate the sizes.
Let’s say you have a top cabinet that has only one door. For the sake of example, let’s say the cabinet size is 18″ wide x 36″ high. (This cabinet is commonly called a W1836.) However, in determining door size, the size of the cabinet is not the important measurement: The opening size is the key. I think the definition is obvious, but the opening is the part of the frame through which the cabinet can be accessed. (Some cabinets have multiple openings, but we’ll talk about that later. We’ll assume this cabinet only has one.) the majoritycases, the size of the opening in this cabinet will be 3″ less than the width of the cabinet and 3″ less than the height of the cabinet. This is because the left, right, top, and bottom framing pieces (called tracks for horizontal pieces and styles for uprights) on most standard cabinets are 1-1/2″ wide each. However, don’t assume anything! Measure the opening!
After measuring the opening, let’s say you find it to be the standard size: 15″ wide x 33″ tall. To size that cabinet door with a ½” overlap, you will need to make the door ½” larger than the opening on each of the four sides: left, right, top, and bottom. Combining these measurements, you will see that the door should be 1″ larger than the width of the opening and 1″ larger than the height of the opening, or 16″ wide x 34″ tall. Very easy!
Moving on to a standard door/drawer base cabinet where you have a drawer opening directly above a door opening with a rail (horizontal frame piece) in the middle, the measurements are the same, assuming the rail is typical of 1-1/2″ wide (or at least 1-1/4″ wide). Since there is room to fit the ½” door liner and the ½” drawer front liner on that rail and there is still room to spare, this will work fine.
The only tricky scenario is when you have a pair of doors covering a single opening. For example, you might have a 30″W x 36″H wall cabinet with a single opening (typically W3036BD or W3036BUTT). The two doors are known as “butt doors” because they (more or less) meet in the middle. In reality, we would normally leave a 1/8″ gap between doors to prevent them from rubbing. So when you measure your opening and find it to be 27″ wide x 33″ high, you start with the same calculation that makes the set door size 28″ wide x 34″ high. Since each door will be half the width, divide the width by two so they are 14″ wide x 34″ tall. Then, to allow for the 1/8″ gap, subtract 1/16″ from each door. This gives you a final door size of 13-15/16″ wide x 34″ high. (If your door maker doesn’t measure doors accurately to the nearest 1/16, find another door maker!)
Regardless of your siding choice, always be on the lookout for obstacles: walls, corners, appliances, trim, etc. – which could prevent a door or drawer from opening properly. If you encounter any of these obstacles, you may need to resize your door or drawer front accordingly.